Yesterday the only options were at private albergues, so that’s where we stayed – in one of them… The private ones are commercial establishments, just like hotels, restaurants and bars, only with a common dormitory. They usually open earlier during the day and allow reservations. At the same time they can be (not necessarily, but often) a rather heartless operation. Municipal and parish- attached (paroquial) ones are always run by volunteers who are there because they want to serve people, and the difference between “want to” and “do because it pays” is sometimes very easy to see. But, the one yesterday served very decent dinner, and a common dinner is always a great connection point between pilgrims.
A lot of places on Portuguese and Ingles didn’t have any meals served at all, Camino Frances is a whole lot richer that way.
Right now we’re in a Parish albergue, which is also a “Donativo”, which means you pay as much as you want. You are of course expected to pay somewhat normal price, but it’s just a collection box, so nobody would even see how much you put in.
Stages so far have been a mixture of hilly (oh, so hilly) countryside, forest and small hamlets (I can’t believe I used the word “hamlet”) with an occasional larger town. Walking through something with paved streets and houses is a good breaker in monotony of gravel roads, full of sweaty pilgrims. I won’t lie, it’s not all walk in the park, only sometimes. By 3-4pm you’d better be done with the stage, the heat is just… it won’t quit. But the good news is, getting up before everyone and leaving before sunrise is great! It’s a truly magical hour when flowers do their best with the fragrance and birds – with the singing. Occasional cat makes an appearance… but mostly it’s just fantastically pleasant to not sweat through the harness of your backpack.
Man, Brazilians don’t possess an indoors voice. Nevermind.
Best sound in the world? Somebody’s making your dinner in the next room, while you’re chilling on your bunk. I don’t even care if it’s lentil soup again.
