We have caught up with the last of the people (or at least the last of the more “normal” ones, who don’t walk for, like, 14 hours a day) who walked away from us during our rest day in Burgos. Probably also walked away from some new friends, at least for now.
As we walked out of Calzadilla de la Cueza today, it wasn’t warmer than plus 9, and my hands were freezing. This was a rather monotonous stage that went along some roads and some countryside roads, fields and more fields. One big event was passing the geographical midpoint of the Camino Frances a little bit east of Sahagún.
This happened literally 3 minutes after some very good friends sent us pictures from SdC – they’ve just finished Camino Portuguese. A bit cool coincidence, no?
Almost all new faces around, in this albergue. This one is a parish one and is a donativo. It is also rather full, especially compared to the municipal one last night, where we were, maybe, 5 people altogether in two large rooms.
After the hospitaleiro have checked you in, you somehow make sure your bunk looks taken. Maybe, by “making the bed” (throwing your blanket and whatever else you use on top of it), but actually that can wait till later. Shower – because, well, you are dusty and sweaty by now, and because it will be a queue later, maybe. Now you’re in your “evening clothes” – mine are shorts and a shirt. Both relaxed and stylish, baby. You’re also holding your sweaty hiking duds in your hand. Socks, underwear shorts, shirt. I sweat like an elk most days, so also hiking shorts, belt and hat. Everything needs to be washed, hopefully in the laundry basins they have and with the soap they provide. Any of those might be absent. Also, drying line may be or not be there, have pegs or not. So, you add your own line, pegs and soap to your load and start flip-flopping your way around the casa to find the laundry facility. It helps to be among the first also here, because things are limited, especially real estate on the drying line. Wash-rinse cycle (by hand) or whatever you have strength and patience to do (bending over a basin after 30+ km with a backpack – screw this). It helps to have good stuff that dries quickly, although some days anything is dry within, like, half an hour. Now you’re all done or maybe you also get to play surgeon on your wife’s feet: a needle, disinfectant, iodine – mm-hm. Now you’re done. Depending on how hungry/tired you are, you may lie down or go hunting for food and alcohol in the vicinity.
In a parish albergue like the one we’re in today, they will typically feed you around 7pm and might suggest to participate in cooking. No problem if you don’t want or can’t, but it’s a good moment to bond with people. Some time ago monks would want pilgrims to listen to a mass or at least a couple of hymns while waiting for the food. Nowadays they’ll feed you first. But a parish (paroquial) albergue would often have something for your soul, as well. So far such things have always been rather meaningful and sweet. Don’t get freaked out if you’re not a believer or not a Catholic, they won’t make you feel uncomfortable.
Before you go to bed, you suddenly remember that you’ve decided to wake up at 5 and leave, without waking up those who will end up behind you in the queue to the next albergue (he-he). That means that all your stuff should be where it should be. Pants and shirt on your bed – check the weather to see if you need long pants or shorts, or you might end up wearing your pant legs backwards after zipping them together in the dark. Speaking of dark: your headlamp should be next to you when you wake up, ready to turn on red light (no white light, please, people are asleep or are trying to be). Backpack packed, save for the things you use for sleeping. When you pack those (or anything else), if you use plastic baggies for anything, I swear to God, I will find you and… but I digress. Be ready to be very quiet. By the way, if your alarm is anything else than vibrating clock on your hand, well, that’s not a good idea, either. So, ideally, everything is packed, save whatever you’re wearing. Your socks and what your flip-flops travel in are somewhere you remember, so that both can be found when you get your shoes outside. Socks, shoes, pack flip-flops. Remember to slam the door behind you and run away while laughing maniacally. Allright, now you know how it’s done, buen camino.
