Fisterra, the funky little cafe above the bus stop. Starting to meet people we walked together with around Burgos, this is the actual fun part. I don’t think I’m often hugged this excitedly by people whom I’ve been friends with since many years back. People are genuinely happy to see each other even though they had only talked for 10 minutes before and barely know each other’s names. I also see the same happening all around me – this is truly the touching part. All emotional from early in the morning, crap.
About to hit the road to Lires, want to walk along the beaches for a bit, like 2 years ago. Actually, this is the first time we are repeating a stretch of the Camino. In 2022 we walked Fisterra – Muxía, also in 2 days, with a stop in Lires (not many options here, anyway). But before we start, there’s this beach to sift through:
Found a couple of little “st. jaques” – scallop shells – among millions of others. It’s great to just waddle through water, though. With some of us looking much prettier than others:
In Lires we start talking to an Italian guy with St.John crosses tattooed on both wrists (along with many other things in many places). He starts by offering us his food (chips and something meat-like). His name is Ivan, his grandfather fought in WWII, and once the Italian troops got stuck at the river Don, he decided to get back to Verona, and did so, greatly aided by Russian families. Well, Soviet, anyway. So they are all very fond of Russians in his family. He is also deeply taken by the mysticism of Compostela, beyond the Christian narrative. Louis Charpentier who I only learnt about just now is, apparently, his great inspiration. Let me just list some of the ideas that I understood and remembered (Ivan spoke Spanish, which I by now understand a little bit)
- Camino de Compostela is a much older tradition than the Christian Camino de Santiago. Its end is at Fisterra, a place of highly concentrated powerful energy singularities. There’s a fresh water waterfall dropping to the salty sea – a magical place, apparently. There’s also a gigantic rock somewhere above Faro lighthouse, sitting in balance. There’s also a magical cave with power to heal barren couples.
- Under Santiago there are 4 rivers converging, thus creating unique energetic environment, as well.
- The real relics of St. James aren’t in the Cathedral, but in a smaller church nearby, the cathedral thus serving as a decoy to better protect the relic. Could he have meant San Martiño Penario monastery? Gotta get in there finally.
- There’s a small Chapel inside the cathedral which is its oldest part (can’t remember, which Chapel, though). The place is supposedly also very special energy-wise.
- A pilgrimage is supposed to be done both westward and back to the starting point. He compares it to opening a door, that needs to be completed by closing it. Walking with the sun on your face, meeting people only once and seeing the same places again (but from the different angle) are important. I’m actually kind of sold on this one.
- Camino Frances is the most important one, as it is done parallel to the Sun’s path in the sky.
- It consists of three parts, first one for the body, where everything still hurts and is physically difficult. The second – the mesetas – is for the mind, as there’s very little variation and you can focus. The third part – in the magical Galicia – is for the emotions. Cool? Yes, it is.
- Game of goose, goose foot are relevant here somehow.
- Apparently, there is a special credencial (pilgrim’s passport) for doing the return camino. This we get to see, and sure enough, it is made as a game of goose, with an inward spiral on which the stamps are collected. It has the goose foot combined with the scallop shell.
I mean, I don’t know, man… It sort of feels like some of these things could have something to them, no? Wikipedia page about Sharpentier makes me bleed from my eyes, to be honest: there are giants who are descendants of inhabitants of the Atlantide and things like that. On the other hand, narratives akin Dan Brown’s horseshit capture my brain, I’m weak (and dumb) that way. At any rate, Ivan here is easy to remember, he is colourful on his skin and in his speech and very passionate.
In contrast to him, other inhabitants of our rather comfortable and very expensive albergue are not allowing any contact with them. Is this universe giving us a sign?
I know one thing, though: I am by far, by far much more affected by the people I meet here, than by any natural or cultural phenomena. Like, not that they are so impressive, but they do imprint on my memory much easier. This is the garden where someone gave us a couple of plums 2 years ago:
Like, walked out to their fence, and gave two tired people two plums each. Is there a simpler and at the same time greater thing on this planet?
